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  WINDY CITY TIMES

SAVOR Brunch at Cobblestone
by Andrew Davis, Windy City Times
2021-10-15

This article shared 1082 times since Fri Oct 15, 2021
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Recently, there have been a few restaurants I've visited multiple times—if for no other reason than to see if there is consistency in the quality (especially, if good) or some sort of improvement (if the food and service were not up to par).

Cobblestone Chicago previously delighted me with its European dishes that feature American twists, courtesy of Executive Chef Michael McCloud (formerly of Tortoise Supper Club)—but how would brunch be at this restaurant?

The answer: My brunch was just as fun, as impressive, as dinner was.

The Lincoln Square spot, 4337 N. Lincoln St., definitely has a folksy, neighborhood vibe—but one needn't be from that specific area to enjoy what it has to offer. (However, I must add that, if you use public transportation, it could be a journey—although the visit is worth it.)

One of the things that stood out about Cobblestone the last time I visited involved the various flights (cider and/or beer). The same idea is there for brunch—but this meal incorporates mimosas, which combine champagne with various juices (in my case, orange, lemon, cranberry and raspberry, as passionfruit wasn't available); they were all delightful, although I found myself repeatedly returning to the raspberry-champagne mix.

There are also tempting cocktails, such as chocolate and strawberry basil martinis, Bloody Mary (of course), Papa's Brew (bourbon, maple syrup and lemon juice, topped with seasonal cider) and the Czechgria (white wine, dry curacao, mixed berries and lemon bitters), among others. And, naturally, there are the aforementioned beers and ciders.

The brunch menu, much like its dinner counterpart, isn't extensive; however, the offerings are uniformly delightful. The headings include "A Lil' Sweet," "A Lil' in Between" and "A Lil' Savory."

Sweet dishes include Dutch Baby puffed pancake (with baked apples and whipped cream), pecan-pie French toast and a Greek yogurt/granola combo called "Perfect." (People who like more indulgent items may contest the accuracy of that last dish's name.)

My dining companion and I had two "Between" items: the latke Benedict and the Royal Breakfast. The former—which we absolutely adored—consisted of fried potato cakes, ham, poached egg and cider hollandaise. (Cobblestone likes its cider.) The latter was composed of over-easy eggs, smoked applewood bacon, pork links and smashed potatoes, which my friend loved (and which mostly went along with her keto-forward philosophy). By the way, I would've been fine with the other "Between" offering: farro-arugula salad.

I opted for the schnitzel and waffles, which is categorized under "Savory." The chicken-fried pork loin was cooked very well, and made the perfect sweet-and-salty partner to the lemon-poppyseed waffles, citrus ricotta and maple molasses. The crispy pork-belly hash, BLT (buttered croissant with bacon, tomato and garlic aioli) and Bistro Burger (featuring a beef-lamb combo) would also be worth trying, I'm pretty sure.

When it comes to brunch, Chicago has an embarrassment of riches. Cobblestone is another jewel to put on your list.

Cobblestone's website is cobblestone-chicago.com .

—COVID protocols at Cobblestone: Patrons have to wear masks throughout the restaurant any time they're away from their tables; staffers are always masked.

Note: This visit was arranged.


This article shared 1082 times since Fri Oct 15, 2021
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