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  WINDY CITY TIMES

SAVOR Brunch at Adorn Bar & Restaurant
by Andrew Davis
2021-05-22

This article shared 901 times since Sat May 22, 2021
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I first became acquainted with Chef Jonathon Sawyer's cuisine at Cleveland's famed Greenhouse Tavern in 2013—and I still occasionally dream about the corn-and-creste pasta dish I had there.

Therefore, I had high hopes about Sawyer's move from Cleveland to Chicago that took place last year.

Said move resulted in Sawyer being the executive chef of Adorn Bar & Restaurant, in the Four Seasons Hotel (120 E. Delaware St.; https://www.adornrestaurant.com/)—and a recent visit for brunch showed that my hopes were justified.

Of course, with the setting being this highly esteemed hotel, the setting was as elegant as I thought it would be. (However, especially for brunch, one needn't worry about dressing to the nines—although I've been to other spots, such as Maple & Ash, where patrons dress to impress.)

Sawyer's items are as inventive as they are sinful—and that's saying (or writing) a lot. Even the fresh-fruit plates come with jewels such as honeycombs and candied pomegranates. And regarding cereal, don't expect Froot Loops (or even some deconstructed variety thereof); Sawyer has unveiled Teeny Tiny Croissant Cereal, coupled with house horchata.

For my brunch entree, I opted for the SB&G—a delightful melange of country sausage, pepper gravy-aged cheddar, buttermilk biscuits and sunny-side-up eggs. My guest went for the Breakfast Burger; he raved that the smashed patty was delightful and "just the right size." And the sandwich came with a surprise: Sawyer scooped out part of the upper bun and placed an egg in the pocket.

Then, we decided to try the lemon-ricotta pancakes—and those may have been some of the best pancakes I've tried. I was worried that the lemon would be overpowering, but such concerns were unwarranted; the pancakes were feather-light, and the lemon essence was just the right amount.

Lastly, Sawyer surprised us with dessert courtesy of Pastry Chef Juan Gutierrez. (Interestingly, they share a connection through the TV show Chopped, as Sawyer has competed and been a judge, while Gutierrez is a "Chopped Sweets" champion.) The culinary work of art I tilted toward—the Colombia Tierra Querida, which incorporates coffee mousse, dulce de leche cremeux and the wafers known as obleas—merits a return visit by itself.

If there was any doubt that hotel restaurants are light years removed from where they were even a decade ago, Adorn is a stellar "Exhibit A." Dining there is a singular experience.

—NOTE: Regarding COVID-related protocols, Adorn and the Four Seasons employ temperature checks as well as hand-sanitizer stations. Face masks are required until you're seated at a table.


This article shared 901 times since Sat May 22, 2021
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