With Windy City Times unveiling its re-designed look in print this week, it seems like the perfect time to discuss a restaurant that's also undergone a renovation: Atwood ( 1 W. Washington St.; www.atwoodrestaurant.com/ )which also has a brand-new look on its website.
Atwood has reopened its space in what is now known as Kimpton's Hotel Burnham ( formerly known as the Reliance Building, now celebrating its 120th anniversary )and, frankly, I was almost struck speechless when I entered. Instead of having to walk around to the entrance, the cafe is right there when you walk inas in, the space is completely open. However, that's not the only difference: The space oozes a much more contemporary feel, thanks to lighting and the absence of those dark woods. The result is lighter, airyand more inviting.
Then there's the cuisine. A new chef ( Brian Millman, formerly of Uncommon Ground ) has added some pizzazz to the menu with offerings: Some are sophisticated and others are almost playfulbut everything was delicious when a friend and I went there recently.
Of course, we started with drinks, and The Dapper Scotsman ( by Ray Anguiano ) was a great way to begin the evening. It's a heady concoction of Famous grouse, campari, carpano antica, lemon, simple syrup and bitters.
Food items are divided into "cold," "hot" and "main" sections. The roasted beets ( with Boursin cheese, oranges, fennel, arugula and honey-citrus vinaigrette ) were light and very pleasant and we both fell in love with the savory monkey bread ( with lemon, parmesan and thyme ). As for the lamb meatballs, I thought they were tasty; however, my dining companion went a step further, saying they were as good as lamb he's tried in the Middle East.
The entrees, I'm happy to report, were just as good as the appetizers. The pan-seared chicken was cooked perfectly, and was supplemented by focaccia-and-leek bread pudding, oyster mushrooms, frisee and green garlic cream. We also tried the Rushing Waters trout ( complete with lemon confit potatoes )and this fish was practically as good as the char I had at Sepia a couple days before.
If you somehow have room for dessert, indulge. The rhubarb upside-down cake ( with strawberry cream-cheese ice cream ) was just the right size and tartness to make this evening even more wonderful. However, there's also the chocolate espresso pot de creme, which is amazing as well.
The Atwood: Check out the renovationsand stay for the food.