At the junction of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers, Pittsburgh prevails as a solid, working-class American mecca that's positively brimming with arts, culture and a welcoming, queer-friendly atmosphere.
The best view of Pennsylvania's second-largest city can be had from the top of Mt. Washington. High-end architecture dots the slanted landscape. While not an actual "mountain," the height of this steep hill is more than sufficient to offer breathtaking views of Pittsburgh's downtown, which was rated the second most beautiful vista in America by USA Weekend. Ride the historic Duquesne Incline to access the top. In operation since 1877, this "funicular," or inclined railroad, operates daily until 12:45 a.m., offering a stunning nighttime panaroma.
In the light of day, The Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens ( One Scheleney Place, www.phipps.conservatory.org ) showcases a range of flora from all over the globe. Highlights include the Orchid Room, with both rare and local species; the Desert Room; and the Butterfly Forest, a special exhibit located in the Stove Room which consolidates many West Pennsylvania species of butterfly into one experience where flowers seem to flutter through the air all around you.
The Carnegie Museum of Art ( 4400 Forbes Ave., web.cmoa.org ) is just steps away from the Phipps Conservatory and boasts a bevy of antiquities, classics and modern pieces from the likes of Matisse, Nakashima and Hopper.
Another name you might recognize is Warhol. Pittsburgh is also the home of the Andy Warhol Museum ( 117 Sandusky St., www.warhol.org ) , another in the Carnegie Museums of Pittsburgh group. The experience takes you through Andy's origins as a young student and photographer in Pittsburgh; his highly experimental and revolutionary work in film and screen printing in the '60s; and his collaborations and connections with other big names in the Pop Art ouevre, such as Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat. Pittsburgh proudly proclaims the moniker "The Birthplace Of Pop Culture," due to its deep connection to the work and life of Warhol.
Pittsburgh takes great care in nurturing its up-and-coming art talent. The Mattress Factory ( 500 Sampsonia Way in the historic Mexican War Streets neighborhood, www.mattress.org ) hosts in-residence artists, who are given total control over an ever-changing series of installations of modern work. Current pieces include a two-room exhibition from Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. Her manipulation of space through light, mirrors and a simulated eternity of polka dots is both playful and awe-inspiring.
Pittsburgh's art bursts out of the museums and onto the streets, thanks to local personality Randy Gilson. His technicolor temple—aptly named Randyland—is his own personal gift to the city. Festooned with re-purposed statuary, day-glo lawn furniture scaling the walls, old doors transformed into canvasses and a scale relief map of the city, Randyland grew out of Gilson's need to make his neighborhood more colorful. His positive attitude and enthusiasm for the city he loves shows through and is one of the most authentic glimpses into the city's artistic soul.
By now, all of this sight-seeing will have worked up quite an appetite. Here are some tasty tips to chase the hunger blues away.
Walking around the Strip District ( along the Allegheny River between 11th and 33rd Sts. ) presents a grazer's paradise. Parma Sausage Co. ( 1734 Penn Ave., www.parmasausage.com ) celebrates its Italian history and heritage by making all of their aged meats in their on-site, environmentally-controlled, four-story aging facility. Sample the "mele" ( puff pastry turnovers with a rainbow varieties of fruit and dairy fillings ) at Colangelo's ( 207 21st St., www.colangelosbakery.com ) . Pennsylvania Macaroni Co.—or Penn Mac, for short— ( 2010 Penn Ave., www.pennmac.com ) offers pastas, sauces, mustards, spices and an enormous selection of cheeses, broken down meticulously by region. Their staff will answer any cheese question you may have. Trust me, I had a lot of cheese questions.
Cupcakes being all the rage, race down to Dozen ( 417 S. Craig St., www.dozenbakeshop.com ) for a different menu each day of the week, presented as a clever calendar poster featuring mouth-watering photos of their many sugary selections.
Stop by The Sonoma Grille ( 947 Penn Ave., www.thesonomagrille.com ) for a casual, airy wining and dining experience which calls to mind California's Sonoma Valley. Chef Andrew's international offerings, including tempura fried shrimp with a wasabi and jalapeño emulsion or Western Pennsylvania pork loin with creamy roasted corn polenta cakes, haricot vert, tomato and fennel jam and a raspberry balsamic reduction, brightly reflect his stated commitment to "the Earth and plate."
And no visit to Pittsburgh can be considered complete without diving headfirst into the infamous Primanti Bros. ( www.primantibros.com ) sandwich. Select your meat ( I strongly recommend the Angus beef ) and they'll pile it high on white bread with cole slaw and French fries. Allegedly created to accommodate truck drivers and their need for a quick, all-in-one meal, this towering construction is a love letter to the simplicity and superiority of sandwiches everywhere.
Pittsburgh's gay nightlife is a vibrant trip all over the city which caters to any late-night whim ( well, not ANY ) . Spin ( 5744 Ellsworth Ave. ) has more of an intimate, loungey feel, while across the street you can always catch a good viewing party ( American Idol, Housewives, etc. ) at 5801 ( 5801 Ellsworth Ave. ) . While downtown, hit up the three spots on Liberty Ave.: 941 Saloon ( 941 Liberty Ave. ) is where the dancers do their thang; There ( 931 Liberty Ave. ) is the more casual, happy-hour-type joint; and Images ( 965 Liberty Ave. ) is the kind of place where anything can happen ... and usually does. Blue Moon ( 5115 Butler St. ) will be your homo hipster haven, with all the requisite horn-rimmed glasses and PBR and ever-so-ironic karaoke. And if your tastes tend more toward the sleazy side, Donny's Place ( 1226 Herron Ave. ) is the place for you. 'Nuff said.
And in this writer's humble observation, no matter where you go in this bustling 'burgh, the dranks is cheeeeeap!
Mark your calendars next June for Pittsburgh's annual PrideFest. This year featured a showstopper from Miss Patti LaBelle.
So 'pop' over to Pittsburgh for the culture, the cuisine, the comfortable, easy-going atmosphere, or just to get one of them sandwiches.
See yinz guys there!
Trust me, it's a Pittsburgh thing.
www.visitpitsburgh.com
All photos by Kirk Williamson, except where otherwise indicated. More photos online at www.windycitymediagroup.com
