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  WINDY CITY TIMES

Palate
by LEE GERSTEIN
2004-08-04

This article shared 1759 times since Wed Aug 4, 2004
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Sad and Lonely

Chef/Author Anthony Bourdain writes about cursed locations in his bestseller from a couple of years back, Kitchen Confidential. We all know these places

The charming storefront, the cavernous industrial space, or just the corner greasy spoon. New restaurants open, and are replaced with newer ones on an almost monthly basis. Once two or three failed restaurants have tried to survive in one spot, the location is cursed, and diners stay away. It's almost innate.

In my neighborhood, a brand new restaurant space was built out of the shell of a failed specialty video store. The restaurant that opened up has a menu posted in the window, and offers plenty of choices, yet there's never more than a table or two taken. Linger too long in front, and one of the owners will bring out a menu, and invite you in. I really should try the place, but ... it just seems doomed. I feel like eating there would be like visiting a sick relative, a duty that must be performed, but the only good that can come of it will be a momentary distraction, from what we all know is a certainty. Grandma's gonna croak, or, in this case, the new restaurant venture that was just last month a full of hope gamble, is now a wilting flower.

Oh well. Maybe the next restaurant that moves into the space will have better luck. Probably not.

There is the opposite of the cursed location, however, and I pass one of those almost every day. From the moment this modest lunch place opened its doors, there were people filing in. In fact, I was with my folks one afternoon, and we were on our way to lunch. After parking the car, we walked toward our destination, but stopped in front of this lunch spot. After only a few seconds, we decided we should try it, only to be disappointed that they wouldn't be open for a week. As we walked away, other lemmings were approaching, eager to dine there. I can't really say why. The place is bright and inviting, the menu items are appealing and varied, the vibe is casual and hip—but, this is all true of the doomed place just two blocks away.

Yet, no one's walking through their door.

And Far from Home

Winter isn't really the time for restaurants. Not in Chicago, anyway. So, while you're staying inside this coming winter, hunkered down, just this side of hibernation, building that layer of fat to keep you insulated from the raging winds outside, you might want to think twice about what you're putting in your mouth. As nutritionists point out every winter, just because it's cold out, and you're trapped inside, doesn't mean you should give yourself license to pig out on anything at all. They admit that our bodies are looking to bulk up, but it's up to us to figure out how to satisfy our instincts in a healthier way, or we'll be awfully sad come June, when it's beach time.

Well, that's what they say. I'll just stay inside and keep eating. If that's not an option, the nutritionists recommend soups and stews. They're quick to fill you up, usually loaded with veggies, and fake you out, by packing your stomach with liquid.

Now, we're not talking cream of potato, but there are tons of choices, most of which can be made low fat or low carb to satisfy those already on the nutritionists' bandwagon.

But Back Outside

New openings in the city include Green Ginger, at the Western end of Division Street's restaurant row. Check out the Asian dishes, all given a contemporary twist, with choices for meat lovers and vegetarians, and with plenty of seafood. The small space is minimal, but comfy, with table lined against the two walls of the storefront.

Also recently opened is The Cooking Fools, on North Avenue, just east of the big North, Damen, and Milwaukee intersection. You can take out a wide array of already prepared foods, pick up some gourmet soda, and then down a handmade ice cream sandwich. This is like a smaller, neighborhood version of a Foodstuffs or Dean and De Luca's. Check it out next time you're in the neighborhood, even if you drop in for a yummy homemade cookie.

The last opening hasn't happened yet. But, the signs are up in a storefront for Chicago's first hookah bar and restaurant. Located in the middle of the Division Avenue strip, just west of the much heralded Fortunato, it is unclear whether the signs are to be taken as a proud announcement or a dire warning.

Going 'South'

at The Room

Jody Andre, who pioneered for the community with Tomboy, The Room, and Speakeasy Supper Club is making more restaurant waves, this time going 'south' with The Room. Her restaurant The Room at 5900 N. Broadway has closed its doors and she is now opening a new restaurant in the same location called South, with cuisine inspired by the South and Southwest. Andre also continues as co-owner of the popular spot Speakeasy Supper Club at 1401 W. Devon, with partners Amy Matheny (of Windy City Media Group), Michael Feinstein and Terence Flannery, which was named one of Chicago's top new restaurants in Chicago Magazine this year. Look for South in mid-August, 5900 N. Broadway, (773) 989-7666.

Retro

Cookin'

BY LEE GERSTEIN

Fudge Time

'People used to sing that Saturday night was the loneliest night in the week—but not at Debbie's house, where everybody joins in making fudge and whoopee!' — Modern Screen Magazine, April 1952

It seems that back in 1952, Debbie Reynolds, the perky star of Singin' in the Rain, and presently Grace's mom on Will & Grace, decided to throw a Turnabout Party, where 'the men do all the work and the women have all the fun.' When the guests arrived, Debbie giggled, and said to the men folk, 'It's the galley for you. And while you're dreaming up something delectable, we'll loll around.'

The boys were having a difficult time determining what to cook. 'I've got it! We'll start with ice cream,' said one of them. 'Delicious. Especially with pineapple sauce—canned.'

Eventually, the main course was decided upon. Chop Suey. After a bit of rummaging through the kitchen, dinner became fudge, based on one of the men's recipes.

It used cream cheese, which left the gals doubtful, but Debbie finally said OK. 'It had better be good,' warned Debbie. 'That cheese was going to be my Sunday lunch.

Ah, the good old days of Turnabout Parties and movie stars saving hunks of cream cheese for their Sunday lunch. What's more remarkable? The fact that I made the recipe, and it's actually quite tasty. The cream cheese adds an ever-so-slight bite to the fudge, similar, of course, to a cheesecake. Try it at your next Turnabout Party.

Debbie's Philly Fudge

3 oz. or 6 Tablespoons Cream Cheese

2 cups sifted Confectioners' Sugar

2 oz. unsweetened chocolate

(not semi-sweet), melted

One-quarter teaspoon vanilla

(I add one-half teaspoon)

Dash of salt (Not necessary)

One-half cup chopped pecans

Cream the cheese in a mixing bowl until soft. Slowly blend in the sugar. Add melted chocolate. Mix well. Add vanilla, salt and pecans; mix until well blended. Press into well-greased pan. Place in refrigerator until firm (about 15 minutes). Cut into squares. For softer fudge, blend in one teaspoon cream. Recipe can be revised for Maple, Coconut or Peanut Butter Philly fudge.

While I can't vouch for those fudge flavors at the end of the recipe, I can suggest adding raisins or other nuts. Adding chocolate chips was received with mixed results, but everyone seems to enjoy broken bits of Andie's mints. Next up, I'm trying M&Ms. If you like cheesecake, you'll like this fudge.

Thanks, Debbie Reynolds—50 years later.

Who'd have ever thought that the foods of the 1950s would once again gain popularity at the start of the 21st century? Certainly, the Atkins craze has to take some of the credit (or blame). Now, it's OK to eat meatloaf again, though you'd better hold off on the mashed potatoes. In fact, the whole retro thing has hit food hard, with supper clubs re-emerging, and comfort food being added to every menu.

If you want to turn Debbie's Philly Fudge into part of a whole retro meal, it's easy to find recipe ideas. If you go to thrift stores, you can sometimes find old recipe books from the 1950s, often part of the Better Homes and Gardens line. Be careful to avoid the 1970s books, which are in greater abundance, and rely way too much on Jell-o.

Don't want to get your hands dirty in a thrift? OK, princess. For you, there are brand new books that feature recipes from the past. A good place to start your party is with drinks, and Tiki Drinks by Adam Rocke and someone named Shag can help. After all, everyone needs to know how to mix a Horny Monkey for when the boss comes over. Stock up on maraschino cherries, pineapple slices, and those tiny umbrellas, and then mix up a tall Malaysian Dream. To enjoy the party twice as much, just double up on the rum.

Atomic Cocktails: Mixed Drinks For Modern Times expands the retro drink menu beyond Polynesia. Karen Brooks, Gideon Bosker, and Reed Darmon have put together a compendium of mid-century alcoholic beverages, like the Stardust Martini and the Cognac Zoom. Just like Mother used to make.

The same authors, plus Mittie Hellmich, also wrote Highballs High Heels: A Girls Guide to the Art of Cocktails. This one is a little goofier, and isn't just for the ladies. There's a good deal of info about all the accessories, gadgets, and gizmos involved (and us ladies do love our gadgets and gizmos). Either of these makes great gifts, especially for friends like me, who require lots of pictures.

Patio Daddy-O: '50s Recipes With a '90s Twist, by Gideon Bosker, Karen Brooks, Leland Payton, Crystal Payton, Lisa Shara Hall (are you sensing a trend), moves past the cocktails, and onto the main course. Try your hand at Slab o' Fun Barbequed Meat Loaf and Cheesy-Drippin, Garlic Fumin' St. Louis Salad, sure to add years to your life.

The Retro Barbecue: Tasty Recipes for the Grillin' Guy by Linda Everett concentrates on grilling meats, but also includes salads, sauces, more drinks, desserts, and more. Impress your guests with Boston Harbor Baked Beans, Prairie Dogs (sliced hot dogs filled with American cheese), and Rosarita Beach Burgers, which are topped off with dollops of refried beans and avocado.

I'd say, 'Enjoy in good health,' but maybe I'd better just say, 'Enjoy.'


This article shared 1759 times since Wed Aug 4, 2004
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