The only wine antidote to coldand there's some left in this most frigid of wintersis red wine. The heft, the warmth, theOK, up frontthe alcohol, it all conspires to stoke that blood.
But you need not look to the traditional combo of high-octane, high-price California cabernet sauvignon or 'Super Tuscan' reds. Plenty of great values in red wines abound from other grapes and other places around the world. Here are some wines to look for when it's cold outside and you're not. ( Because it's no use drinking without something tasty, some suggested food matches come along. )
Corbieres: From the Languedoc-Roussillon area in southwestern France. Most of the reds are made from the carignan grape and turn out, ripe, rich, bold in flavors of dark berries, black pepper and a hint of leather ( yummy ) . The tannins are substantial, but are fine-grained and not aggressive. If you've braised some lamb shanks, you won't find a better partner at the table.
Moulin a Vent: One of the more substantial crus of Beaujolais and consequently able to stand up to heartier fare, such a well-roasted chicken. This medium-bodied red is buoyant with the flavors of cherries and raspberries and has a clean acidic edge especially in the finish. Best of all, it's juicy and makes your mouth water.
Monastrell: Spanish for what the French call mourvedre and we call mataro, a grape that makes for a red rich and plush in texture, with flavors of overripe plums and blackberries, with a touch of licorice. It's stout with tannin, so something like a medium rare steak would tame it well.
Barbera d'Alba: This red from northern Italy is so deeply flavored ( black cherries, hints of tar and smoke ) that it seems sweet. Its abundant, but soft and mildly chalky tannins only add to its opulence. Fatty sausages, or any meat with its fat still attached ( lamb chops, say ) , would be a fine match.
California zinfandel: Lots of delicious zinfandel flavorscraisins, dried plums, notes of rosemary and sagewith moderate tannins and good acidity. Would nicely clean up a mouthful of roast pork, especially if it were to be prepared with dried apricots.
Australian shiraz-cabernet sauvignon: Usually so dark it's a light shad of black. The depth of color is mirrored in solid, but eminently drinkable, flavors of blackberry and black pepper, all swaddled in filigreed tannins. Pair this with a beef or lamb stew.
Send your questions to Bill St. John at saintbill@hotmail.com .