I remember when the first Big Bowl opened. It's still there, in River North, and connects to Wildfire. Back then, the brand new Big Bowl connected to the brand new Eccentric, co-owned by Oprah Winfrey and Rich Melman. Melman's Lettuce Entertain You restaurant chain and Big Bowl remain, while Oprah has quietly moved out of the restaurant business.
Big Bowl not only remains, but thrives, with locations popping up on Rush Street and the original location shifting over to Ohio Street, along with restaurants as far out of town as Schaumburg and Lincolnshire. What you may not be aware of, is that the operation also includes outlets in Texas, Virginia, Minnesota, North Carolina, and Denver. Why not? The Big Bowl formula, which dishes up seemingly healthy Asian-inspired fare, offers many choices for a reasonable price, and can accommodate a wide range of eaters.
Melman has been helped along in this quiet move to world domination by Brinker International, the same corporation behind the Corner Bakery and Magianno's' expansions. Soon, all Americans will be able to enjoy Kung Pao Chicken and Chicken Satay, thanks to this merger. Whether this is so good for local Asian restaurants is another matter.
When Big Bowl first started, the Asian influence was barely there. The concept was on the Big Bowl, and what could be served in it, like mac and cheese. That's gone, replaced by a full commitment to stir fries and noodle dishes, a solid identity, that, while it took a while to achieve, sits comfortably with this mini chain.
The large menu includes familiar appetizers, along with choices that are variations on old favorites. The Vietnamese Summer Rolls are authentically wrapped in slightly sticky rice paper, and filled with shrimp, greens, and crushed peanuts, and are the perfect light start to a meal. Dumplings come pan fried (potstickers) or steamed (wontons). The potstickers are filled with green onion and ground chicken, Chinese mustard greens, and spinach. Dip in the tangy plum sauce, and you're good to go. Vegetarians should opt for the wontons, filled with greens and peanuts. Not as flavorful, but is anything that's steamed instead of fried?
It's easy to make a meal out of a collection of these smaller plates, but most people can't resist entrees like Burmese Curry, a coconut curry with shrimp and snow peas. Be sure to let the extra curry sauce soak into the rice for a fatty good treat.
Noodle dishes are big everywhere these days, no place more so, than at Big Bowl. The Blazing Flat Noodles are for fans of spicy food. Mixed in with the pieces of white meat chicken and thick, wide rice noodles, are fiery green chilies, and red peppers that will have more sensitive diners reaching for their water glass. Sorry, that doesn't work. The water slides off the oil-based peppers. Instead, try a nibble of sticky white rice.
The Shanghai Noodles feature eggplant, bamboo shoots, healthy bok choy, and slices of shiitake mushrooms. On a cold day, I prefer the Vietnamese Chicken Noodle Soup. The flavorful, clear broth is filled with shredded white meat chicken pieces, Thai basil, lime, and fresh sprouts. The topping of hot peppers and cilantro give a little fire to the dish.
Hearty appetites will be sated with the Crunchy Sesame Chicken. Fried pieces of chicken breast are served with an assortment of vegetables in a sweet and tangy sauce. The Thai Curry Beef is a yellow curry, flavored with almonds, and studded with peas. The beef is sliced flank steak, and begs to be eaten over rice.
Special care is given to kids with a clever children's menu tucked into a take-out Chinese food container, along with a pair of chopsticks, and games. Tamer versions of adult fare can be found, such as a chicken noodle soup, and Chinese Crunchy Chicken Sticks (their version of chicken fingers), served with a plum sauce for dipping.
Service is fairly dependable, although it can get a bit harried when the place fills up —and it often does.
Don't forget to order the interesting Hibiscus Lemonade, and, most important, the warm, gooey brownie. Just like the ones the Chinese are famous for. Who cares if brownies don't really harken back to the Orient? Can you really argue with a warm and gooey brownie? How about one that is topped with vanilla bean ice cream, chocolate drizzle, and just a touch of coconut? Take a bite, and you can see the steam rising out of the brownie, as you bring it to your mouth. Believe me, it won't have time to cool off.
On a recent visit, an excited twentysomething woman ordered the brownie, and was asked by her waiter if she'd ever ordered it before, that usually four diners split one. She nodded, and, sure enough, when that brownie a la mode arrived, she ate it like a professional. When the waiter passed by again—not too much later—that brownie was MIA, and the waiter looked shocked. I thought he was going to offer her a free t-shirt.
Of course, minutes later, I finished my own, so maybe the waiter just has a small appetite.
