Windy City Media Group Frontpage News

THE VOICE OF CHICAGO'S GAY, LESBIAN, BI, TRANS AND QUEER COMMUNITY SINCE 1985

home search facebook twitter join
Gay News Sponsor Windy City Times 2023-12-13
DOWNLOAD ISSUE
Donate

Sponsor
Sponsor
Sponsor

  WINDY CITY TIMES

Palate: Parisian restaurants
by BILL ST. JOHN
2003-04-23

This article shared 2386 times since Wed Apr 23, 2003
facebook twitter google +1 reddit email


I work in the French department at Sam's Wines & Spirits. Because of the French stance at the United Nations, some of the store's customers aren't keen on buying French (although there seem to be as many people buying French on purpose to make up the difference).

In my opinion, the French have a point to make about how nations ought to work together globally. And so, primarily because it's about to be summer travel time, I want to tell you about my favorite Parisian restaurants. If you're going to Paris, try them out.

For my part, I hardly go to Paris anymore except to eat parts of it. I used to enjoy the gardens of the Musée Rodin, to amble and see The Burghers of Calais and The Thinker outdoors, shiny-slick from a soft April rain. Or to stroll toward the Hotel des Invalides by way of the Champs de Mars and really get a feel for power.

Now I take that route to walk off a meal.

I have a brother who has lived in Paris for 10 years, God bless his soul, and I try to visit him every year. Because I live to eat, over the years I have found several restaurants in this capitol of gastronomy that are superlative touch points for French cuisine.

First, a disclaimer: I am the antithesis of the American foodie, for whom the newest and hippest are best. When in Paris, I revisit the same restaurants, year after year, and I eat the same things.

I dine this way in Paris because I have found no better oysters than the crisp, briny fines de claires at the brasserie Le Suffren. No more delicious andouillette than that sauced in Sancerre and butter at Le Vieux Bistro. No choucroute as heady as the one from the platters at Chez Jenny.

What is better at L'Oeillade? The wild owners or the portions? Who roasts a better chicken than Le Muniche?

And there is a small table for one—just for one—in a deep nook at Le Petit Salé, where you can sit to eat the bistro's specialty of pickled pork knuckle and its bed of lentils de Puys and feel as though you were back again in a tree house, just little you and what alive a life you had then.

At Le Suffren, a Savoyard with hands as big as hams shucks oysters outside the corner window. He lays the long, knobby oysters portugaises on a bed of shaved ice, like a wheel's spokes.

They also still stir together a steak tartare at Le Suffren, zippy with capers and capped in a raw egg—something that no restaurant in America would make anymore.

The fromage de tête at Le Vieux Bistro (constructed, of course, in its kitchen) comes with a crock of gerkins as tart as Roman streetwalkers and a perfect lift for this astonishingly rich and aromatic melange of pig's remains. The boeuf bourgignonne at Le Vieux Bistro is stewed to such depth that it shines as black as a poodle's nose.

Le Muniche is best on Sundays, for it is in the heart of the Left Bank, near St-Germain des Prés. The crowd is an assemblage not often seen in one place: students working off their hangovers; heavily-powdered dowagers and their wee, velvet-leashed dogs; nurses and doctors from their swing shifts; the tourist or two. Le Muniche is corporate-owned (the Fréres Layrac) and stodgy, but its chocolate-colored leather banquettes house history and that, no corporation can take away.

I like Le Muniche's overdone leg of lamb and the pan juices that it arrives in. The Capuchin-brown french fries to the side sponge up the mess and become tastier for it.

My favorite white dinner wines are from Alsace and Chez Jenny carries a lot of them. They taste so delicious with Jenny's jarret de porc or the kitchen's homemade fois gras or the spit-roast pork shin or the runny, funky, heady munster or, well, just about anything.

Oh, I suppose Paris is Restaurant Le Tour d'Argent and The Jules Vernes, too. But not for me. I want one more go at L'Oeillade's rillets de porc, slathered across some pain Poilane. One more go.

Le Petit Salé

99, ave des Ternes, 75017

(off Blvd. Gouvion)

Tel: 45.74.10.57

Metro: Porte-Maillot

All cards

Open daily, lunch and dinner

Moderate

Le Vieux Bistro

14, rue du cloitre Notre Dame, 75004

Tel: 43.54.18.95

Metro: St-Michel

MC, V only

Open daily, lunch and dinner

Expensive

Salad with lardons (frisée au lardons), Head cheese (Pate de tête), Beef burgundy (beouf bourgignon), Preserved duck (confit de canard), Vanilla ice cream in puff pastry (Profiteroles), Apple pie (tarte tatin); also wonderful fish preparations and cheese.

L'Oeillade

10, rue de St-Simon, 75007

42.22.01.60

Metro: Rue du Bac

MC, V only

Monday-Friday, lunch and dinner; Saturday, dinner only; closed Sunday

Moderate to Expensive

Amazing portions of country cooking in a modern, comfortable environment; best bets are the one-price menus at around 40 euros; near Musée d'Orsay and Musée Rodin.

Le Suffren

84, ave de Suffren, 75015

45.66.97.86

Metro: La Motte Piquet-Grenelle

MC, V only

Open daily

Inexpensive to Moderate

Near the École Militaire and the Tour Eiffel; fantastic oyster and fruits de mer selection; great fixed menus (look on small printed sheet top inside right side of main menu); for example, roast lamb; bifstek; incredible foie gras cooked with raisins.

Chez Jenny

39 blvd de Temple, 75003

42.74.75.75

Metro: Republique

Most cards

Open daily, lunch and dinner

Moderate to Expensive

Alsatian menu, with great wines from Alsace (pinot gris, pinot blanc, gewurztraminer); highlight of menu is choucroute garni, mild sauerkraut with many sorts of sausages (order the "paysan") and boiled potatoes.

Le Muniche

7, rue de St-Benoit, 75006

42.61.12.70

Metro: St-Germain des Pres

Most cards

Open daily

Moderate to Expensive

For oysters, roast lamb, Left Bank ambiance; wonderful roast chicken (poulet rôti).


This article shared 2386 times since Wed Apr 23, 2003
facebook twitter google +1 reddit email

Out and Aging
Presented By

  ARTICLES YOU MIGHT LIKE

Gay News

SAVOR Easter roundup for 2024 2024-03-24
- Easter is a time to celebrate rebirth, spring, life—and brunches. Chicagoland restaurants will be out in full force on Sunday, March 31, offering Easter meals—some with their own twists (including ...


Gay News

SAVOR WhiskyX, an Easter soiree, a pizza-making class and more 2024-03-24
- I'll drink to that: On March 21, I was invited to check out dozens of whiskeys, rums, tequilas and other spirits at WhiskyX, which took place at the Chicago venue Morgan MFG and which hundreds of ...


Gay News

SAVOR REVIEW Sushi By Bou 2024-03-19
- Going into a sushi restaurant, I didn't expect to hear a 1920s version of the Carly Rae Jepsen hit "Call Me Maybe" emanating from the speakers. However, that and other Great Gatsby-like flourishes can be found ...


Gay News

SAVOR Gemini Grill opens, 'Rick Bayless Day' and more 2024-03-17
- —And I quote: I'm not crazy about reality, but it's still the only place to get a decent meal."—Groucho Marx —Pop life: Don't forget my other Substack: "Pop-Eds: My takes on pop culture." Thank you so ...


Gay News

SAVOR REVIEW La Grande Boucherie 2024-03-14
- Just a few months ago, The Group NYC—a hospitality consortium based in you-know-where—opened the Italian restaurant Olio e Piu in Chicago's River North neighborhood. You can read my review of ...


Gay News

SAVOR James Beard contest, a new Publican opens and a PAWS event 2024-02-25
- Contest: You have a chance to be in on all the action during the chef-studded James Beard Award weekend of June 8 in Chicago. Among other things, the grand prize winner will get a three-stay in ...


Gay News

SAVOR Green City Market; Sofitel's 'Un-Tea' time 2024-02-24
- For those who wonder about the lack of a farmers' market in Chicago during the winter months, I point you toward Green City Market (GCM) Avondale, taking place on Saturdays at 8 a.m.-1 p.m. through March ...


Gay News

SAVOR A new Sushi By Bou, a seafood boil class and James Beard scholarships 2024-02-18
- Pop life: Don't forget my other Substack: "Pop-Eds: My takes on pop culture." Thank you so much to the people who've already subscribed. The latest entry (Feb. 17) features Beyonce, Zendaya and my Oscar predictions. Subscribe ...


Gay News

SAVOR At Willies 'n Waffles, sexuality is on the menu 2024-02-12
- Having written about Chicago's culinary scene for at least 15 years, this writer has covered all sorts of spots—from Michelin-starred upscale establishments to those so-called "holes in the wall" that can serve some of the best ...


Gay News

SAVOR 'The Bear,' new pizza lounge, Chicago Black Restaurant Week 2024-02-11
- "Bear" necessities: The third season of the Chicago-set series The Bear will debut in June, per Variety. FX chairman John Landgraf made the announcement during the network's presentation at the Television Critics Association's winter 2024 press ...


Gay News

SAVOR Taylor's Tacos' Chef Taylor Mason on being part of the Vegas event 'Pepsi Dig In' 2024-02-08
- On Feb. 8-10 (Super Bowl weekend), Taylor's Tacos Chef Taylor Mason and wife/co-owner Maya Mason will be showcasing two exclusive dishes at the Pepsi Dig In: Brunch with the Best takeover at Delano Las Vegas, giving ...


Gay News

SAVOR Jean Banchet Awards, new Black-owned spots and free pizza 2024-02-04
- Congrats!: The winners of the Jean Banchet Awards—which honor Chicago cuisine—were recently announced at Venue Six10. Longtime Chicago Tribune critic Phil Vettel was (justifiably) honored with the Culinary Excellence of ...


Gay News

SAVOR Chocolatier Uzma Sharif on being part of World of Chocolate 2024-02-03
- AIDS Foundation Chicago will hold its annual World of Chocolate event on Friday, Feb. 9, at 6 p.m. at Union Station, 500 W. Jackson Blvd. Attendees will embark on a global tour of chocolate—but there will ...


Gay News

SAVOR Valentine's/Galentine's Day offerings for 2024 2024-02-01
- Love is in the air—until it isn't. While some couples will be getting ready to celebrate their closeness (and all that other mushy stuff) on Valentine's Day, others will get together to celebrate Galentine's Day (celebrating ...


Gay News

New Survey: Unstable housing most cited reason for food insecurity among LGBTQ+ youth 2024-01-30
--From a Williams Institute press release - A new report by the Williams Institute at UCLA School of Law finds that 85% of LGBTQ+ youth programs surveyed said unstable housing was the main reason LGBTQ+ youth had inadequate access to food. The programs ...


 


Copyright © 2024 Windy City Media Group. All rights reserved.
Reprint by permission only. PDFs for back issues are downloadable from
our online archives.

Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, drawings, and
photographs submitted if they are to be returned, and no
responsibility may be assumed for unsolicited materials.

All rights to letters, art and photos sent to Nightspots
(Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago
Gay and Lesbian News and Feature Publication) will be treated
as unconditionally assigned for publication purposes and as such,
subject to editing and comment. The opinions expressed by the
columnists, cartoonists, letter writers, and commentators are
their own and do not necessarily reflect the position of Nightspots
(Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago Gay,
Lesbian, Bisexual and Transgender News and Feature Publication).

The appearance of a name, image or photo of a person or group in
Nightspots (Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times
(a Chicago Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual and Transgender News and Feature
Publication) does not indicate the sexual orientation of such
individuals or groups. While we encourage readers to support the
advertisers who make this newspaper possible, Nightspots (Chicago
GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago Gay, Lesbian
News and Feature Publication) cannot accept responsibility for
any advertising claims or promotions.

 
 

TRENDINGBREAKINGPHOTOS







Sponsor


 



Donate


About WCMG      Contact Us      Online Front  Page      Windy City  Times      Nightspots
Identity      BLACKlines      En La Vida      Archives      Advanced Search     
Windy City Queercast      Queercast Archives     
Press  Releases      Join WCMG  Email List      Email Blast      Blogs     
Upcoming Events      Todays Events      Ongoing Events      Bar Guide      Community Groups      In Memoriam     
Privacy Policy     

Windy City Media Group publishes Windy City Times,
The Bi-Weekly Voice of the Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual and Trans Community.
5315 N. Clark St. #192, Chicago, IL 60640-2113 • PH (773) 871-7610 • FAX (773) 871-7609.