Many travelers are familiar with the wineries in Napa Valley, but if they head north they will discover a wine road that has much to offer without all of the busloads of tourists.
Flying into San Francisco from Chicago was a breeze; then, it was a quick jaunt up Highway 101 over the Golden Gate Bridge to arrive at the Bella Villa Messina to spend the night. Not your typical bed-and-breakfast, it was like staying in a huge mansion, thanks to gay partners Jerry and Harold. They treated everyone like family, and the cooking is top-notch. I can still taste bacon and French toast. The fireplace in the room kept me warm and toasty, and there was a Jacuzzi tub to relax after a long trip.
I began the week with checking out some local winemakers at their factories.
Manzanita Creek Winery is owned by two brothers, Jack and William Salerno. Having very different personalities adds to the mix; the very young production started only a few years ago. Try the Stealth zinfandel; it was inspired by planes, of course, and comes in for a strong landing.
The well-known film director Francis Ford Coppola has a side project that has grown into a huge business. Located in the Alexander Valley, his winery is massive, complete with a pool, restaurant and factory that produces huge vats of wine. The style of food at the inclusive restaurant Rustic brings the diner to Italy; however, there are other dishes, such as Mrs. Scorsese's Lemon Chicken and the Marrakesh lamb. His Oscars are displayed for public enjoyment and artwork is everywhere, even down to the label on the reserve wine.
Two terriers ran out to greet us at the Nalle Winery. Having a building underneath the ground in a shallow cave makes this family-owned winery a cool place to be—literally. Don't worry, though: You won't feel claustrophobic, as there is only three feet of dirt covered with rosemary above the construct.
Don't miss the breathtaking view from the Russian Hill Estate. Edward Gomez, a retired doctor, made his dreams come true by creating a place to drink and reflect.
Chef Mateo Granados prepared a delicious meal, including his specialty monkeyface eel that is customized for different size groups. Inspired by his Yucatan background, Granados uses local Sonoma ingredients to prepare sustainable dishes such as the cochinita pibil and the pollo adobado.
The Wine Road includes over 150 wineries in Sonoma County. Tasters follow a map and rules to enjoy a one-of-a-kind experience that leaves other samplings in the dust.
Barrel tastings offer buyers a chance to purchase futures, which means wine that is in the finishing process usually completed by August of the same year. This is for bargain shoppers offering an opportunity to order in bulk and save big bucks.
"Crazy Coffaro Futures Program" has come up with a system to purchase that premium wine and is currently on their second sparkling wine. David Coffaro invites guests for tastings every day except holidays.
The Pedroncelli family have an upscale winery with a fourth generation now growing on the vine.
In downtown Geyserville there are many stops, such as Route 128, where people can even buy moisturizer made from grapes. While the outside might not impress, just look inside for a hands-down winner, as Charles and Molly have garnered awards like Wine Spectators' 100 Best Wines of the World. Transformed from an old bank property, this is a vault full of bottles that I would like to be locked inside of for an afternoon. Mercury Wines brings something creative to the table, with bottles such as The Bastard and the fruity Orange.
Lunch at the Jimtown Store takes customers back in time, with antiques in every corner of the general store and juicy sandwiches to consume or box lunches to go.
Speaking of restaurants, Starlite Vineyards ships many of its wines all over the world, including Chicago ( at venues such as Blackbird and Pops for Champagne ) . The incredible art collection relaxed spectators who sipped on cabernet sauvignon sitting in the sun.
Santa Rosa's Sunce Winery has a record number of members and has won medal after medal. Hopping from barrel to barrel, this winery has garnered well-deserved accolades and has a nice sense of style.
For dinner, don't forget to stop by the new and hip Scopa in the downtown square of Healdsburg for Nonna's tomato-braised chicken served in a warm pot. The place keeps a cute crowd that packs the house and the cooks aren't too shabby either, with an open kitchen to watch pizza dough be kneaded by strong hands.
The road continued on through even more wineries, with more than 100 to sample from over the weekend.
Make sure you are there next year, as the tour celebrates a big 35th anniversary. Visit www.wineroad.com for tickets and details such as a map to not get lost, there's an app for that too. Look for the 14th Annual Wine & Food Affair Nov. 3-4.
Also, try "Out in the Vineyard: Gay Wine Weekend" June 15-17 in Sonoma Valley—complete with a twilight T-dance; more info is at www.gaywineweekend.com .
All this wine talk is making me thirsty. Time to uncork a bottle—cheers!
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