Contemporary concerns are definitely addressed at Modern Asian Kitchen ( MAK ) ( 1924 W. Division St.; www.makrestaurant.com/ ).
The meats are raised naturally—free of antibiotics, hormones and steroids; other items, such as poultry, are bought locally when possible. Also, no MSG is used in the items, and there are gluten-free offerings.
Of course, MY concern at this cozy spot is if the food is taste-free. I had flashbacks to a vegan restaurant I went to several years ago. Everything tasted like cardboard. Thankfully, it isn't.
Among the tastiest items are Chicken Wangs ( named after the owner ) and General MAK chicken or shrimp ( which sport a tangy glaze ). However, you and mix-and-match so many things with your orders, including multiple veggie sides, such as bean sprouts or pickled daikon; and substituting tofu or veggie falafel for a protein.
Owner Tommy Wang—a friendly, telegenic soul—said that all he wants to offer is a "simple, concise menu." So far, so good: While MAK isn't overflowing with options, it overall does a more-than-solid job with what it has.
Also, two other notes: MAK now serves alcohol, and I will forever remember this restaurant for no other reason that the chork—a chopstick/fork combination that is sheer genius.
Val Kosenko has a relaxed ( and relaxing ) air about him, which definitely helps him run the three-month-old Terrace on Clark ( 77 W. Wacker Dr.; www.terraceonclark.com/ ).
Your name not on the book even though a reservation was made in your name? No problem. No meat in the steak quesadillas you ordered? No problem.
Kosenko believes in cultivating relationships with customers, even saying he treats them like family—even to the point of providing free things on occasion.
I'm discussing Kosenko because Terrace is pretty laid-back itself, even though it's in a stately Loop building that houses law firms and other large businesses.
As for the food, it's falls into the "above-average bar food" category, for the most part. The tempura-fried vegetable medley was not exactly a hit for us. However, the Terrace "fish and chips"—fresh cod poached in beer with homemade potato chips—converted my friend, who's not the biggest fish eater. The farmhouse burger ( complete with sunny-side-up egg ) was also more than satisfying.
As for the terrace, it's beautiful and, no doubt, lots of people will sit out there to enjoy their fare. And, as Kosenko put it, the setting will stay until the weather turns cold: "It could be Sept. 1; it could be November."
