Big & Little's, a River North burger and po' boy joint, was put on the map after being featured on the Food Network's "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives." I've been wanting to check out the now-famous fried seafood and duck fat fries for some time now. So, when a second location opened a few weeks ago in Lakeview, I got in line.
On most counts, Big & Little's lives up to its reputation. Most of the burgers are about $6 a pop and you can get fantastic meat and fish tacos for $3 or $4 each, making it an affordable indulgence. And, you won't have to ( completely ) blow your diet either. The portions are shockingly small when compared to the super-sized helpings you receive at most fast food places. Some people looking to splurge might be disappointed by the small baskets of fries and burgers you can actually hold in one hand, but I found it refreshing to be served portions that are closer in size to what we should be eating.
Big & Little's looks like your typical fast food place primary colors, bright lighting and no frills. But, don't be fooled by its humble appearance. The food is far superior to what you'd get a big chain. Plus, it's BYOB, so you can throw back a cold beer with your burger.
I went to Big & Little's for the burgers and po' boys, and they were impressive, but it's the tacos that will keep me coming back for more. You can choose from among all kinds of tempting taco fillings like fried oyster, mango chutney pork and ahi tuna sashimi. My favorite taco is the Mexican beef short rib. Tender and ever-so-slightly spicy marinated beef is served atop two palm-sized soft corn tortillas. The taco is drizzled with tangy green salsa and plenty of fresh cilantro. You won't find those kind of high-quality ingredients at most places selling tacos for $3. One of the special tacos when I visited was made with steamed blue crab. An ample scoop of fresh shredded crab is served simply in a warm flour tortilla. This upscale taco doesn't need a lot of bells and whistles in the form of extra toppings, and it is definitely worth a try.
It only takes one bite to understand why Big & Little's burgers caught Guy Fieri's attention and subsequently that of so many Chicagoans and tourists. The beef patties are juicier than most and have just the right amount of grease to make them worth your while. The BBQ bacon burger will make fast fans out of most carnivores. It is coated generously coated in smoky barbecue sauce, but not so drenched in it that the soft white bun gets soggy. It's also topped with some serious slices of bacon that must be at least a quarter-inch thick. The salty bacon is balanced by a few crunchy sweet pickles.
Don't miss out on the fries. They taste greasy and crisp like they've spent some time in the bottom of the fryer ( in a good way ), and they have a rich flavor, thanks to the duck fat they're cooked in. Order them with truffle salt for a decadent treat.
The po' boys left less of an impression on me. The fillings certainly are a cut above oysters, pork belly and soft shell crab, to name a few. The problem is the bread-to-protein ratio. I tried the fried shrimp po' boy, and while the shrimp were fresh, plump and beautifully fried, they were swallowed up by the large and unremarkable roll on which they were served. I struggled to get a bite that wasn't more bread than shrimp. But, one slightly disappointing po' boy won't keep me away from Big & Little's. The superb tacos and burgers will make a regular customer out of me.
Big & Little's is located at 1034 W. Belmont Ave.; call 773-857-6677 or visit www.bigandlittleschicago.com .
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