My love affair with Bavette's Bar & Boeuf began the moment I stepped out of the bone-chilling Chicago cold and into the dark and sexy dining room—before I ever spread a bit of salty butter on a hunk of hot fresh-baked bread, before I washed my first oyster down with a sip of bubbly and before a single ounce of impossibly tender filet mignon ever melted in my mouth. When it comes to classic Chicago steakhouses, this place is the real deal.
With rich and shiny wooden walls, handsome red leather booths, antique mirrors and soothing jazz music, Bavette's feels like it's occupied its Kinzie Street space for decades. As I settled into my cozy seat and took it all in, I could picture my late grandmother sitting in that very chair in the 1950s, looking stunning with a cigarette in one hand and a martini in the other. While Bavette's manages to feel like it's been around forever, the décor doesn't feel dated like it can at some steakhouses.
The dining room is the epitome of classic Americana at its finest—as is the food. If you're looking for culinary sleights of hands and experimental recipes, you won't find many at Bavette's. What you will find is a solid sampling of steakhouse classics: wedge salad with blue cheese, shrimp cocktail, roasted tomatoes, creamed spinach and steaks sized for every appetite. What sets Bavette's apart is that the dishes, while familiar, are prepared so impeccably that they almost feel new.
The oyster bar, which is actually a vintage sink filled with ice, is an excellent place to start what is bound to be a beautiful meal. This is prime time to check out Bavette's cocktail menu, a tempting liquid smorgasbord that is heavy on the gin, which plays perfectly into the vibe of the place. The "Lion's Tail," a slightly frothy mixture of bourbon, allspice and bitters is a nice way to warm up on a winter night. It tastes the holiday season in liquid form. Or, go the classic route with a French 75. Bavette's version tastes like a boozy sparkling lemonade and goes down really easy.
The smoked whitefish Caesar is one more unique salad, and it is fantastic. Mild whitefish adds the salty punch that anchovies would provide in a classic Caesar and crispy slices stand in for croutons.
Now, if you're the kind of person who goes to a restaurant like Bavette's and orders anything other than a juicy steak and way too many side dishes, I suppose there's nothing I can do to stop you. And you will be tempted because there are offerings like short rib stroganoff over hand-cut Fettuccine, studded with Cremini mushrooms. Maybe you can veer into entrée territory on a second visit, but I wouldn't miss out on a steak for your first meal at Bavette's—and based on current reservation wait lists, it could be spring by the time you can get a table after 5:00 p.m. or before 11 p.m. If you simply can't wait for your turn in the reservation line, the full menu is served at the bar.
Far and away, the filet mignon is my top pick among the many delicious steak options. The 6-ounce petite duchess cut is more than enough meat for most people, and it's small enough that you can still eat plenty of side dishes. The filet is so thick that it would be difficult to cut through it if it weren't so darned tender. On top of that, it's simply but expertly seasoned with just enough salt and pepper to draw out the flavors of the beef. This succulent steak barely needs it, but I can't see any reason to forgo the divine cup of creamy Béarnaise that accompanies it. It has a thick consistency, almost like a decadent pudding, but with a rich and savory flavor. You also can't go wrong with the Chicago-cut rib eye. Priced at $38.95 for a plump 22 ounces, you'll almost feel like it's a bargain, especially if you sprinkle it with a bit of Bavette's steak salt, an irresistible blend of salty seasonings that is at once completely unnecessary but totally irresistible—kind of like putting butter on movie theater popcorn.
Of course, any steakhouse is only as good as its side dishes, and Bavette's certainly rises to the occasion. Expect straightforward classics like broccoli and mashed potatoes, with a few subtle surprises. The creamed spinach, for instance, is made new with blue cheese. Red pepper gives it a bit of unexpected heat, which is interesting, but frankly left me longing for a more classic version. One novel side is the elote style corn, a fun dish that tastes essentially like the spicy, tangy version you can buy from carts on the street during the summer. Good stuff.
Without a doubt, the piece de resistance of Bavette's side dish menu is the loaded baked potato. It's a sight to behold. First of all, I don't know where they even find potatoes this large. It's piled high with lots of melty cheddar cheese, a generous dollop of thick sour cream and plenty of fresh green chives. Where inferior loaded baked potatoes make do with dried bits of bacon, Bavette's is upgraded with juicy chunks of pork belly. It is, in a word, heavenly.
A meal as good as the one you will eat at Bavette's should be honored with a leisurely sweet ending. The chocolate cream pie is a solid choice. Like the steaks before it, this pie is a cut above. The crust is made from Oreo cookies, which feels humble and charming at a place as upscale as Bavette's. On top of the crust is a rich and decadent dark chocolate ganache. The pie is finished off with a softball-sized scoop of some of the best whipped cream I've ever had—super fluffy and just barely sweet.
Bavette's is located at 218 W. Kinzie St.; call 312-624-8154 or visit www.bavetteschicago.com .
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