When the Chicago Cubs play at home, Wrigleyville can be so packed that it's almost not fit for man or beast.
However, it's a boon for businesses, especially restaurants ( and, even more so, those equipped with large-screen television screens so people can watch their favorite team battle in those friendly confines ). It's when the Cubs have away games or have days offor, more precariously, during the offseasonthat a different reality settles in for those local businesses.
This is when discriminating diners can separate the wheat from the chaff, so to speak. Fortunately for Stretch Bar & Grill ( 3485 N. Clark St.; www.thestretchchicago.com/ ), it falls into the first category.
Chef Jim August ( Cortland's Garage; Standard ) has crafted a menu that justifies Stretch's six-year existence. However, for the uninitiated, be aware that the place is baseball-themed down to its name ( which comes from the Cubs' seventh-inning stretch ). Salads and sandwiches have names such as The Elwood, The Gabby, The Don and The Groverbut, thankfully, each item has a description of the former Cubs player that serves as the inspiration. ( The burgers are named after locales such as Clark Street and Sheffield Avenue. )
My friend and I started with drinks; he had a few Moscow Mules ( which were apparently pretty tasty ) while I had a delicious Holy Cow ( named, of course, after the late Harry Caray's catch phrase ). However, the drinks at Stretch are noticeable for a couple other reasonsparticularly because they come in Mason jars and that they come in various sizes ( up to a mind-blowing 128 ounces ). Presumably, the largest variety is for sharing.
As for the food, it's really impressive. The shortrib chili nachos are, as they say, worth the price of admission alone. However, the $12 slider trio isn't far behind, with choices of the braised shortrib, chicken tinga ( with pepperjack cheese, applewood-smoked bacon, guacamole, pico de gallo and chipotle mayo ) and award-winning Kobe burger.
The Babe ( named after the late right fielder Floyd Caves "Babe" Herman ) is a tantalizing Sheboygan-style brat simmered in Guinness that is topped with caramelized onions and a whole-grain Guinness mustardall served on a pretzel bun. Even the mac 'n' cheese fritters seem a step above normal sports-bar fare, as the deep-fried items are stuffed with applewood-smoked bacon.
As with most sports bars, offerings are in relatively short supply for vegetarians ( and even fewer for vegans ). However, there are a few options, such as a hummus trio, Bavarian pretzels ( from Dinkel's Bakery ) and guacamole.
However, if you want dessert, you're totally out of luck. August told Savor that he tried sweet items once ( including Twinkie truffles ) but that "no one eats desserts at a sports bar." I guess I'd be the odd exception.
Despite that shortcoming, I'd recommend spending some time at Stretchand remember that the incredible food is also available when the Cubs aren't in town.