Chef Tony Scruggs is Old Crow Smokehouse ( 3506 N. Clark St.; www.oldcrowsmokehouse.com/ ).
This is something he told me directly, although he didn't need to. An engaging personality, Scruggs is an expert storyteller, talking about everything from his time on the Fox show Masterchef ( where he finished 16th ) to the fact that he travels 60 miles to work every day.
The latter fact shows that the love of cooking still motivates Scruggs—a love that's also reflected in the food at the massive Wrigleyville restaurant.
For those who are indecisive, the menu might prove to be a nightmare, as so many items sound enticing. Appetizers include pulled-pork egg rolls, smoked jalapeno poppers and even crow's-nest poutine ( which includes Hand-cut fries, house Worcestershire cheese sauce, beef gravy and beer-BBQ sauce ).
Things started off well with a peach Collins cocktail ( served, fittingly, in a Mason jar ). It's a moonshine/gin mix ( a phrase I won't use too often in this column ) that's quite refreshing.
As for the food, it was just masterfully done. I could have been satisfied with the bean-and-bacon soup alone, in terms of taste and amount.
Then, Scruggs was kind enough to basically put Noah's ark in a tray for myself and two dining companions. ( There is a build-your-own combo available. ) Items include a side of ribs, brisket, half a chicken, sausage link and pulled pork. Every item was incredible, but my fave was the brisket—which was just as tasty and tender a couple days later.
If, somehow, you have the room for dessert after all that, Old Crow has some very tempting options, including baked peach turnover, toasted S'mores pie and layered Southern-style pudding.
There is one disclaimer, though: If you're not into country music, you may have a harder time liking the place. The music is piped over the speakers, bands perform regularly and there is live-band karaoke every Thursday.
Note: Old Crow Smokehouse also has a location at 1100 American Lane, Schaumburg.
Kokopelli
Kokopelli ( 1324 N. Milwaukee Ave.; www.kokopellichicago.com/ ), a gourmet taco spot, has managed to do the near-impossible—but I'll get to that later.
The restaurant opened on Halloween—which was ominous in more ways than one. The holiday provided some tricks along with the place's treats, as the weather was particularly horrific that evening.
However, I'm certainly hoping better luck smiles upon this restaurant, which provides something delectable for everyone.
Start with the salsas: espuma de mar ( pineapple salsa with a touch of habanero pepper ), Castigo Azteca ( charred chile de arbol and peanut salsa ) and Lagrimas de Lucifer. As one might guess, anything with the word "Lucifer" in it is extremely hot—which is why I stayed away from it. Despite the fact that it has habanero, espuma de mar was definitely the mildest—and it's very tasty.
Now we get to the point where Kokopelli ( named after a Native American deity of fertility and mischief ) did something I didn't think was possible: Make me a fan of guacamole. Practically all my life, I've shunned avocados and, in tern, guacamole. So it was with hesitation that I tried two varieties—chicarron, which is served on a giant pork rind and has bits of rind in it; and seasonal, which is dotted with fruits of the season. It's now safe to say that I'd return here just to get this.
Then there are the tacos ( three for $12 ). My friend and I tried three varieties: kraken ( with grilled octopus ), steak a las brasas and Baja ( with beer-battered mahi-mahi ). I took to all of them, although the steak really stood out for me.
We then had the Milanesa mini-torta, a breaded chicken breast concoction that didn't quite measure up to the previous items; and a sweet chimichanga filled with seasonal baked fruit that was good, but not great.
As for other aspects, the atmosphere is extremely inviting, with the friendliest servers I've met in a while. On the other hand, I did feel sorry for one of the servers, as the glass of lemonade I ordered was pretty small—and he constantly refilled it. I just thought of how it would be for him if the restaurant had been full of patrons with these small glasses.
Nonetheless, I feel that Kokopelli is a spot to hit—and be sure to try the guac.
Note: Kokopelli did not have a liquor license when my dining companion and I visited—but it does now. There are currently several cocktails, tequilas and beers on hand.
