Times have certainly changed.
Once, the term "neighborhood restaurant" conjured images only of greasy spoons that served the most sinful of comfort foods. ( However, in their defense, some of those places serve the tastiest food. )
However, the people behind Lettuce Entertainment You ( LEYE ) restaurant Beatrix ( 519 N. Clark St.; beatrixchicago.com/ ) aim to change that concept with a River North restaurant that can safely say it's not serving your grandparents' steak and eggs. ( In fact, its twist is steak chimichurri with eggs, complete with grilled shishito peppers and hash browns. )
Additional Ombra photo spread at the link: www.windycitymediagroup.com/gay/lesbian/news/photospreadthumbs.php .
Amiable executive partner Marc Jacobs ( no relation to the fashion designer ) told Savor several intriguing tidbits about the year-old Beatrix, including that the place's name derived from a combination of LEYE founder Rich Melman and his wife's mothers' names. ( "Beatrix" also is a combination of "viatrix," Latin for a female voyager or traveler, and "beatus," Latin for "blessed," according to several name-related websites. )
Something else Jacobs related is that Beatrix restaurant started with a test kitchen in which chefs were given free rein with the cuisine, resulting in a no-holds-barred approachand a menu that spans the globe.
This eclectic pattern is reflected primarily in the breakfast and lunch menus. Go in the morning, and your choices include shakshouka ( spicy tomato sauce, poached eggs, kale, feta and warm naan ), quinoa cakes with poached eggs, or a braised pot roast-and-egg sandwichwith that last item being very tasty. Lunch offerings include supernatural chopped salad ( which contains practically a farmers' market of vegetables ); Dr. Bob's turkey burger ( with quinoa, almond and kale salad ); savory turkey, sweet potato and greens neatloaf ( yes, that's spelled correctly ); or a surprising chili-and-chocolate glazed salmon.
Dinner seems to have more traditional fare, although the neatloaf and salmon are there as well as brioche-crusted branzino as well as poached farm egg and truffled pasta.
By the way, Beatrix excels with its drinksand I mean the non-alcoholic ones. ( It was a bit too early in the day to try a cocktail, although I've have to return to try one. ) The carrot, apple and ginger-snap concoction I had was suitably robust, while my dining companion's mango, orange and pineapple nectar was definitely refreshing.
Speaking of robust, Beatrix offers Bulletproof coffee ( in addition to Intelligentsia and Metropolis brands ). Bulletproof may cost almost nine dollars a cup, but its low-toxin beans provides antioxidants as well as time-released caffeine.
Welcome to the new neighborhood restaurant. This one definitely deserves a shot.
Andersonville restaurant Ombra ( 5310 N. Clark St.; barombra.com/ ) was reviewed in 2012, with Sugar & Spice reviewer Meghan Streit giving the spot high marks.
However, there has been at least one noticeable change since then: a 4,000-pound wood-burning oven that was added in May. I tried one item from it: the carbonara pizza, which is decorated with pancetta, roasted garlic, farm egg, black pepper, mozzarella and pecorino romanoand while I wished for a more even dispersement of toppings, it was pretty good. ( Among the other pizza offerings, divided into "red" and "white," are piccante, margherita and calamari. )
As for other items, they're as good as advertised. The goat-cheese truffles ( fennel powder, almond cookie, and smoked paprika and cayenne ) were simply fun, and the large zucchini flowers were definitely tasty. However, don't leave without trying the orecchiette ( one of the best I've had ) and the pancetta-wrapped, gorgonzola-filled dates.