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DISH LIST The Florentine; food news
Special to the Online Edition of Windy City Times
by Andrew Davis
2011-01-12

This article shared 4714 times since Wed Jan 12, 2011
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Despite its sleek look and upscale cuisine, the word that recurred in my mind as I recently checked out The Florentine (151 W. Adams; www.bltrestaurants.com ) was "homey."

That impression was primarily due to the warm colors present through the Italian restaurant. It was also because of the many stacked books that make up part of the decor; you feel as if you're in a library—albeit one where you can dine on lamb sausage.

The food at the Florentine is quite impressive as well. An antipasto of seared scallop with fregola sardo, butternut squash and black truffle was nicely balanced, which was also the case with the arugula salad with pickled fennel, parmigiano and toasted hazelnuts. (Other offerings include roasted beet with cow-milk mozzarella, arugula, watercress and balsamic vinaigrette; and tomato bread soup with parmigiano and basil, among others.)

Even the bread—warm and filled with garlic—seemed to be calling to me as I had a couple slices. Normally, I don't even touch bread at restaurants.

As for entrees, they're divided into "primi" (first courses) and "secondi" (second courses). It turns out that you don't need to order from both because one of these dishes can fill the average person. The shortrib—braised in red wine, mascarpone creamed polenta and cippolini onion) is one of the best I've sampled in my life. I had similarly high hopes for the lemon-and-thyme roasted farm chicken with butternut squash panzanella; however, although the chicken was succulent, the lemon overwhelmed the bread in the panzanella (a salad of bread and tomatoes)—the night's only misstep.

I do plan on returning to try one of the many other offerings, which range from trout (with rock shrimp, leeks, chanterelles and lobster vinaigrette) to various meat dishes such as New York sirloin "tagliata."

As for dessert ("dolci"), few items in the city can touch the Florentine's chocolate hazelnut panna cotta, although the tiramisu isn't far behind.

However, the Florentine offers fare throughout the day. While brokering that morning deal in one of the private dining rooms, dine on breakfast items ranging from steel-cut oatmeal to lump-crab frittata (with spinach, tomato and onion) to an MLT (with mortadella, teamed with fried egg, provolone and country bread). There's also brunch with breakfast items, salad and pizza.

General Manager Amanda Kullman talked with Dish List. She called the menu "very approachable," while adding, "I could come in here and have a bowl of homemade pasta and be fine, but I also wouldn't mind coming here for a birthday party with my girlfriends. It's also a pretty romantic spot." She also compared The Florentine to "a library within the castle" that is the JW Marriott Hotel.

Having explored The Florentine, I must agree with her on all points. It's intimate and cozy. Yet, you could also conduct the most serious of business there—all while enjoying some top-notch food.

Food news:

—Bistro One West has opened at 1 W. Illinois in St. Charles, Ill. Bistro One West owner and restaurant industry veteran George Guggeis has more than three decades of experience as operator and owner of successful Chicago restaurants including Mango and Grapes. Guggeis Doug D'Avico, with more than 20 years of kitchen experience, as Bistro's chef. Among the dishes at the 5,500-square-foot restaurant are Berkshire pork cutlets, Lake Superior walleye pike and bread-and-butter pudding. See www.bistro1west.com .

—The Gold Coast BBQ restaurant Chicago q (profiled at www.windycitymediagroup.com/gay/lesbian/news/ARTICLE.php; is offering a three-course prix fixe lunch for $15 through January. Among the offerings are beet salad, bacon-cheddar hush puppies, pulled pork sandwiches and cinnamon ice cream.

—Fleming's Steakhouse has its own prix fixe menu. For $39.95, you can get your choice of one of two entrées and the option of hearty mushroom soup or roasted pear and candied walnut salad, and dessert. Fleming's has two locations: at 25 E. Ohio (Chicago) and 960 Milwaukee (Lincolnshire). See www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com .


This article shared 4714 times since Wed Jan 12, 2011
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