I don't make my way to Wicker Park too often (and the neighborhood has significantly changed from the arty area it was in the '90s, now with stores such as Marc Jacobs). However, eateries such as Grass Fed (1721 N. Damen Ave.; www.grassfedbucktown.com ) make the trip worthwhileand beckon you to return. (Despite the URL, this is a Wicker Park establishment to me.)
Below are three reasons why Grass Fed can put a smile on your face:
1. The space: It helped that it was sunny the day I visited, but this space is extremely light and airy, which can put anyone in a good mood. The walls are very white, again keeping it airy, and the place is cutealmost too cute. In addition, the front and back doors were open, keeping things breezy. (However, the accessibility also brought in one unwanted patron: a pigeon that, according to Chef Jason Myers, walks in almost daily.)
2. The chef: Myers, who moved to the United States 13 years ago from Australia and has worked in San Francisco, is one of the most laid-back and friendliest individuals you'll ever meet. (When my dining companion was running late and I asked how late this place stays open, Myers responded, "Until the last person leaves"although I'm not sure how serious he was.) When asked what he brings from Australia to his cooking at Grass Fed, he said, "Honestly, it's just a relaxed attitude."
3. The food: The menu is divided into "Day" and "Night" options (similar to breakfast/brunch and dinner, respectively), and has certainly expanded from its earlier days. "Day" items include everything from bread pudding "French toast" to "Green Eggs, No Ham" to asparagus salad to smoked chicken burger.
I'll have to come back to try a couple of those items. In the meantime, I was impressed with the selections on the "Night" menu. Among the appetizers are crispy duck confit (with frisee and chorizo-lentil vinaigrette), and the slow-roasted baby eggplant, both of which were absolutely delicious. Of course, I could've just eaten the caramelized onion and buttermilk biscuits (served with blue cheese and honey butter) by themselves, and I would've been happy.
Entrees are similarly impressive. The sauteed whitefish was succulent and not "fishy" at all, while the grilled grass-fed New York strip steak (with brown-butter gnocchi, spring onion, peas, trumpet royal mushrooms and chimichurri) certainly could've stood on its own. However, the sides accentuated the very tasty beef. (By the way, the beef is sourced from Wisconsin grass-fed and pasture-raised cows, hence the name.) Other offerings include crispy pork schnitzel, roasted half-chicken and goat cheese white grits. By the way, I couldn't get enough of the butterscotch puddingmeaning that the place pretty much has you covered in terms of appetizers, entrees and desserts.
In addition, check out the drinks. The Springboard (pineapple-infused rum, mint simple syrup and lime juice) is just as refreshing as it sounds, but there are unique items such as The Lip-Smacker, which contains cantaloupe juicenot found in too many establishments.