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  WINDY CITY TIMES

DINING: Doing the WAVE
by Andrew Davis, Windy City Times
2013-03-13

This article shared 3366 times since Wed Mar 13, 2013
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There was a time when the thought of eating food in a hotel prompted most people to eat in a "real" restaurant.

Well, those days are long gone. Hotels have hired top-notch chefs to create dishes that are on par with highly praised standalone venues.

One sublime example of those newer hotel restaurants is at the W Hotel at 644 N. Lake Shore Dr., where WAVE ( www.cornerstonerestaurants.com/wave/index.html ) is drawing patrons from outside in addition to the hotel's guests.

Eating there recently for lunch, I was immediately struck by how light and airy it was, as socialites and families took in the atmosphere.

Chef Gregory Elliott has an impressive pedigree (including Chicago's one sixtyblue and Ambria), and he has successfully applied his skills to the dishes here. The flatbread (with prosciutto, rapini, caramelized onions and taleggio) was absolutely delightful. Elliott provided an additional treat with butternut-squash caramelle, and the items were positively addictive—and could've been dessert items with their sweetness. (Other appetizers include a charctuerie platter, warm marinated olives and steamed mussels—and don't forget the soups and salads.)

As for the sandwiches and entrees, they are stellar as well. The Slagel Family Farm burger is one of the best burgers I've ever had, and it comes with caramelized onions, lettuce, tomato and Wisconsin white cheddar cheese. (Other options for the burger include a fried egg and bacon; however, since I wasn't in the mood for a possible trip to the cardiologist, I declined.) A fried chicken sandwich also deserved praise, and is certainly above the standard KFC fare.

Other entrees that I'm sure warrant trying include salame rosa, ricotta ravioli, and the Shetland salmon with wilted spinach.

By the way, I don't normally try cocktails earlier in the day, but I had to try the Gingered Apple—a concoction of Belvedere citrus and ginger beer with an apple garnish. It was so refreshing, and even had me thinking of spring while there was snow outside.

Incidentally, WAVE has an even more expansive dinner menu, with such dishes as cobia, pork chops and steak—although it's the duck-fat fingerlings that really might draw in the crowds.

So, try WAVE. Elliott handles appetizers, entrees and desserts (chocolate budino!) equally well—not bad for someone at a hotel restaurant.


This article shared 3366 times since Wed Mar 13, 2013
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