I wasn't quite sure what to expect from W Lakeshore's Current ( 680 N. Lake Shore Dr.; www.wchicago-lakeshore.com/current-chicago-restaurant ) in light of the substantial renovation the hotel has undergone—but what I encountered was one of the best brunches I've had in quite some time.
One server called the decor "Great Gatsby," and that description seems to fit. The look is very sleek and shiny—almost a little bright for someone who might have a hangover. However, all the elements come together beautifully.
Executive Chef Gregory Elliott told me he decided to go with an Italian-focused menu because it's "seasonal" and "simple," adding that it "plays to what the customer base wants."
And the customer base will especially want to start things off with the housemade morning bun with orange zest, cardamom and nutmeg ( so good that I also got one to go ). The chicken-fried bacon was an incredibly tasty twist on an item that's popular in Chicago, to say the least.
I'm not usually the biggest fan of too many sweets in the morning, and I thought I'd reached my limit early on with the bun. However, I'm still dreaming about the Nutella-stuffed French toast ( listed under "Dolce," along with items such as crepes and buttermilk pancakes ). Lastly, my dining companion and I tried the house-cured salmon pizza, complete with dill creme fraiche, capers, red onion and a hard-boiled egg—and both of us were impressed.
So say goodbye to Wave ( the restaurant that was housed here )—and "wave" hello to a new place with incredible offerings. I have been to very few places with items that impressed from beginning to end. I will be stopping by again soon. ( Note: Current is also open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. )
The Florentine ( 151 W. Adams St.; www.e2hospitality.com/florentine-chicago/ ), located at the JW Marriott Hotel, was one of the first restaurants I visited for this column.
However, there was a different chef at the helm then ( Todd Stein ). Now, the executive chef is Chris Macchia, who has worked at such establishments as Coco Pazzo.
However, before I settle in on the food at The Florentine—which still maintains its library-like feel while I'm amongst hotel residents and power brokers—I'm served a Black-Eyed Angel. The name is pretty fitting in at least one respect: The mocktail ( pomegranate juice, blackberry puree, sparkling water and peach bitters ) tastes like it was sent from heaven. I would return for this alone.
Now, for the lunchtime cuisine: The Italian-focused menu doesn't seem the most challenging—but that's actually part of the allure for me. As long as the items are done well, it's all good.
On that level, The Florentine more than succeeds. Even the bread that's served ( particularly, the focaccia ) is amazing.
Among the items I tried were the sausage pizza ( mushrooms, tomato, fiore di latte and rosemary ), chicken panini ( with smoked mozzarella, peperonata and basil aioli ) and a sandwich twist called an MLT ( griddled mortadella, fried egg, provolone, mayonnaise and country bread ). Among the trio, the MLT was undoubtedly my favorite, with the egg dripping through.
If you somehow have room for dessert, there are several tantalizing options, including the torta ( a smaller, round cheesecake with red wine-poached figs and pine-nut brittle ).
By the way, the restaurant has tasting specials with a theme. A recent theme was tomato, with buffalo mozzarella and brandywine tomato cobbler among the offerings.
