It's that time of year—late sun rises, early sunsets and temperatures that begin to thicken your blood for the icy conditions ahead. While the foliage of the changing trees casts a sliver of warmth throughout the otherwise pewter landscapes, I can't help but ask myself, am I ready for another winter? As a co-worker of mine observed, "People in Chicago like to hibernate. They trade in going out on the weekends for staying in and watching a movie. They rarely leave their house except for work, and until the temperatures change, they tend to surround themselves with the friends in closest geographic proximity."
But there is something about fall that is almost restful, a time to take a break from the busy schedule of summer, visit family for the holidays and go to bed before 9 p.m. sometimes. I can't help but crave cuddling up on the couch with a book and a blanket, and eating comforting dishes that warm my throat, heat my core, and cause my nose to run.
Soup for a gray day must be more than just broth in a bowl. Thins soups function more as a first course, leaving the eater wanting more, and when the winds are howling through the buildings and allies of the city, you need something that leaves the consumer content. The soup must have enough sustenance to make whomever is eating it forget about the conditions outside and transport them to the comfort of their own bed.
Technically, soup is defined as a some sort of liquid stock with larger pieces of solid food in it, although we use the word as an umbrella term for consommés, chowders, stews and soups alike. But If we are talking specifics, then I think fall is a perfect time for chowders.
Chowder is somewhere between a soup and a stew, usually includes some sort of pork fat, and is thick enough to coat the back of your spoon without completely dripping off. Everyone is familiar with broccoli and cheddar soup, but a while back I stumbled upon a recipe for a broccoli and cheddar chowder that offered a great variation on the classic soup.
By adding the smokiness of summer sausage, the sweetness of red pepper and the heartiness of potato, the chowder does all the things a good soup for a gray day must do. Don't get me wrong, the original broccoli and cheddar soup—pureed into submission, with a rich cheese flavor and a thin consistency—is tasty too, but when it comes to something that sticks to your ribs, it just falls short.
That being said, if you are expecting broccoli and cheddar soup, I might recommend just making classic, as this rendition is noticeably different from the original, but that's what brings me back to it. By leaving some broccoli florets whole, and the potatoes in cubes, the chowder takes on a more toothsome bite that is not indicative to the classic's smooth consistency, and is perfect when wanting more than just "soup."
As with any good soup, the flavors must be layered, the spices must be just right and the proportions of ingredients must be correct, but once those happy mediums are found, one bite will calm the winds, brighten the sky, and make winter seem months away.
Broccoli Cheddar Chowder
1 head of broccoli ( 1/2 pound )
3 oz of summer sausage, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1/4 cup of dry white wine
1 large yellow onion, chopped fine
1 large red pepper, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons of butter
1-2 russet potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1/2-inch cubes ( 1/2 pound )
2 teaspoons of ground cumin
2 teaspoons of chili powder
1 teaspoon of paprika
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons of flour
1 cup of heavy cream
6 oz of aged Wisconsin sharp cheddar, grated ( 1 1/2 cups )
Salt and pepper to taste.
1. In a large pot, boil four cups of salted water.
2. In a bowl or sink, soak the peeled potatoes to remove any excess starch.
3. Remove stem from broccoli, discarding any unusable parts, and finely chopping the remaining stalk. Cut reaming broccoli into one-inch florets.
4. Blanch the broccoli florets for two to three minutes and place in an ice bath to stop cooking. Reserve three cups of the broccoli water, discard the remaining water.
5. In the same pot fry the summer sausage until browned. Reserve two to three tablespoons of grease.
6. To the reserved grease add the garlic, onions, red pepper, and butter, cooking the onions until they are slightly translucent, add the potatoes and remaining broccoli.
7. Add cumin, chili powder, paprika, dry mustard, and flour, stirring until equally coated.
8. Add reserved cooking water and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.
9. Stir in heavy cream and grated cheese.
10. With an immersion blender, puree soup for one minute or until desired consistency is achieved.
10. Garnish soup with more cheese, and fried summer sausage.
